Discover Chenin Blanc: The Loire’s Golden Grape and Three Appellations That Define It
There are many fascinating wine styles cultivated from the Loire Valley’s signature grape, Chenin Blanc. From crisp, dry styles to rich, lusciously sweet expressions, from still wines to beautiful bottles of sparkling, the Loire’s star grape consistently produces wines that are vibrant, mineral-driven, and refreshing. But above all, Chenin Blanc stands out for its astonishing versatility, making it a truly exciting sip in any form.
The grape that was first cultivated in the Loire in the Middle Ages by monks remains the viticultural heartbeat of the region today. Diverse, terroir-driven wines can be found here across the map, but there are some appellations that have devoted their vineyards to the sole cultivation of Chenin, or Pineau de la Loire. Three of those appellations, also known as AOCs (Appellation d’Origine Controlee), that are imperative for understanding Chenin Blanc include Vouvray, Coteaux du Layon, and Bonnezeaux.
“This pineau wine, O this lovely white wine! By my soul, it’s such a silky, soft wine.”
3 Chenin Blanc focused appellations worth knowing
Vouvray AOC: The Versatile Icon of the Loire
The deepest, and most complex history of the Loire’s appellations, the story of Vouvray begins in the year 372 when the first vines were planted. During the 15th and 16th centuries, the kings of France were enamored with the Chenin Blanc which evolved to reserving the best bottles with the truest expressions for royalty. This propelled the fame of Vouvray and the wines cultivated within it, which eventually led to the region becoming the very first AOC in 1936.
Vouvray is found within the Touraine AOC of the middle Loire where Chenin thrives. The Chenin Blanc of the Vouvray AOC is grown on the Loire’s unique Tuffeau soils made up of soft chalk/limestone that formed approximately 90 million years ago. These soils are ideal for growing Chenin Blanc and lend a mineral, pristine character to its wines. Several of the wines are even aged within the ancient limestone tunnels that lay beneath the vineyards, acting as the perfectly humidified natural wine cellar.
Chenin from Vouvray can be crafted in many styles, which has led it to become one of the more commonly exported AOCs. The wine from this appellation can be quite dry, off-dry, or sweet and is signified on the label as Sec (<8g/l), Demi-Sec (8-35g/l), Moelleux (>35g/l), and Doux (>150g/l).
Coteaux du Layon AOC: The Sweetheart of Anjou
This AOC is located within the regional Anjou AOC in Layon, named for a tributary of the Loire River. The unique Tuffeau soils can also be found here, known to contribute vibrant acidity to the grapes, a welcomed accompaniment to the sweetness of the region’s wines.
Chenin Blanc of Coteaux du Layon is crafted into high-quality wines that gain sweetness by two factors: extra hang time of the grapes on the vine, and botrytis affected grapes. Each practice concentrates the sugars in the grapes, giving the wines their rich, luxurious profile that bode well for aging.
Chenin Blanc within this appellation may receive a different AOC title and can be labelled Coteaux de Layon Chaume 1er Cru, Coteaux de Layon + village, Coteaux de l’Aubance, and Quarts de Chaume Grand Cru, depending on its winemaking techniques and status.
Bonnezeaux AOC: Sweetness meets structure
The earliest proof of wine being enjoyed from Bonnezeaux dates back to 1055, and its popularity saw it on the finest tables of the German, Dutch, and English in the Middle Ages. Still known for its astonishing aging potential, Chenin Blanc crafted within the Bonnezeaux AOC in Anjou is widely admired and highly collectable. Wine lovers around the world are drawn to the history and rarity of these cellar-worthy Loire Valley wines forged in the misty, botrytis affected vineyards that span over just part of a single commune.
The south and south-west facing slopes amongst the Layon River, climate and sandstone schist soils all contribute to a formula that produce over-ripe grapes highly susceptible to botrytis, a combination crucial to creating the intense dried, tropical fruit and honey notes, sweetness and complexity that is the signature of Bonnezeaux. This is Chenin Blanc in its most indulgent form, and rarest.
Chenin Blanc is like an elastic band that stretches and bends in different forms across the Vouvray, Coteaux du Layon, and Bonnezeaux appellations. Always versatile, yet always charming, complex, and unforgettable. For those seeking a casual glass of wine or a serious cellar selection, there’s a bottle of Loire Valley Chenin Blanc just waiting to be uncorked.
Try these:
Domaine Des Petits Quarts Tradition Chenin AOP Bonnezeaux 2022, $53.95
This wine is derived from the 26 hectares of Chenin Blanc belonging to Domaine des Petits Quartz in the Loire Valley of France. The sweet Chenin style from Bonnezeaux is highlighted in this highly decorated bottle. Honey, candied mango, and mandarin are procured by a lusciously succulent palate that sings on a chord of ripe acidity. A structure so balanced, and so intact - precision is everything. Leaving nothing for longing, the finish is everlasting. An accumulative totality of near Chenin Blanc perfection.
Donatien Bahuaud Les Grands Mortiers Vouvray 2023, $20.95
This Chenin Blanc from winemaker Donatien Bahaud, who has earned the nickname “cru finder” of the Loire, is a demi-sec, or a medium on the sweetness scale. The sugar, however, is almost undetectable as a rush of invigorating acidity sweeps across the palate upon first sip. Honey, gardenia and pear notes blossom on the nose and palate. It gives hints of complexities as if the nervy core has tethered everything together with tight bungee cords showcasing impeccable tension that promises to mellow and flourish with the unfolding of time. The bottle’s true nature is said to be revealed in the cellar after substantial bottle age. A treasure from Vouvray that punches way above its price point!
Learn more about Chenin Blanc at the Global Chenin Observatory.